Al Fresco in Abruzzo
PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHN FITZPATRICK & COLM O’CALLAGHAN
That we had dined at a charming trattoria just steps from the Pantheon in Rome the previous night was a distant memory by the time we arrived in the Abruzzo region.
After dropping our packs at a pristine B&B in Assergi—a quaint village nestled among rolling hills—we strolled down to a lively restaurant we’d spied on our way into town. We were the only tourists here and nobody spoke English, which only added to the allure of what felt like an authentically rustic Italian experience.
Surprisingly, the region boasted a number of locally produced craft beers which disappeared quickly on the warm September afternoon.
The real revelation, however, was a traditional Italian dish and local specialty known as ‘arrosticini’—tightly packed, pieces of succulent lamb on skewers.
It’s tricky to accurately describe the mouth-watering flavor of this popular fare—first created by shepherds in the early 1900s—but if you can imagine the juiciest, smokiest lamb you’ve ever tasted, you’re getting close.
Image Credit: Italy Magazine
Leaving Assergi’s pastoral beauty behind, we drove northeast for about an hour, climbing over 5,000 feet into the heart of the Apennine Mountains. Here, the landscape is littered with remnants of ancient glaciers and sharp, craggy peaks in every direction. The terrain underfoot is decidedly rocky with loose scree, so a good pair of boots is a must.
Perched high up on Monte Portella at an elevation of 7,834 ft. (2,388m), the Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi offers breathtaking views and was the ideal launchpad for an ascent of Corno Grande the following day. The food was basic, but the beer was cold, and the bunk beds were cozy, so despite a fitful sleep, we were well up for what promised to be a challenging trek ahead.
Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi
“The food was basic, but the beer was cold, and the bunk beds were cozy, so despite a fitful sleep, we were well up for what promised to be a challenging trek ahead.”
The air here was definitely thinner. Even a short ramble up the ridge involved frequent stops as our bodies adapted to the altitude. Setting off the following morning with the sun on our backs, we made good progress marveling as the steady ascent revealed glorious vistas of the valleys below.
The more challenging part of our hike comprised of teetering along the edge of dramatic ridge walks and scrambling over bowling ball-sized boulders. This preceded a steep climb towards the top where, upon reaching a natural crow’s nest of sorts, we paused to catch our breath.
The summit was in sight now. A conservative estimate put us reaching the top within 45 minutes, but alas this author lost his nerve, staying put while others continued on. Let’s call it a bad case of the ‘heebie jeebies’. The sheer scale of the imposing mountain peaks became too much and even the prospect of descending in that moment was frankly terrifying. Thankfully, the feeling passed and once we retraced our steps to the valley below, the walk became enjoyable again.
“Let’s call it a bad case of the ‘heebie jeebies’. The sheer scale of the imposing mountain peaks became too much and even the prospect of descending in that moment was frankly terrifying.”
The trail to Rifugio Franchetti—our rest-stop for the night—was well-marked but involved a dramatic descent, so it was slow going and we were wise to use the via ferrata (rope chains) to navigate some of the more precarious sections.
“Casual conversation with a group of seasoned climbers in their seventies covered everything from James Joyce’s Ulysses to the potential pitfalls (pun intended) of “portledging” on a rock wall.”
What a satisfying treat it was to enjoy a couple of cold brews after a demanding day of traversing through Abruzzo’s natural wilderness. Named after Italian alpinist and explorer, Riccardo Franchetti, this super comfortable sanctuary in the sky was surrounded by vertical rock walls, making it a mecca for mountaineers too.
Casual conversation with a group of seasoned climbers in their seventies covered everything from James Joyce’s Ulysses to the potential pitfalls (pun intended) of ‘portledging” on a rock wall.
The following day, having retrieved the car, we headed two hours south to the small town of Pescasseroli. It was hard not to fall in love with what felt like a quasi-utopian quality of life here.
Older gents congregated by the town hall at Piazza Sant’Antonio to swap stories, while a labyrinth of surrounding stradina concealed some of the most enchanting specialty food stores and capellas (little chapels) one can imagine.
Our evening meal that night could have been at any one of Pescasseroli’s fine restaurants, but we were on the hunt for a regional delicacy. Literally translated as ‘spaghetti by the guitar’, Spaghetti alla Chitarra is a variety of egg pasta revered for its porous texture—making it the perfect accompaniment for almost any sauce.
Paired with a deliciously, bold puttanesca and a couple of glasses of Montepulciano, our last night in the Abruzzo region more than lived up to our expectations.
Image Credit: Fugzu & Sur la Table
