Dizzying Heights
THE MAGIC OF HOWTH
BY GAVIN MANLEY
A world away from the bustle of Dublin’s city center sits a historic fishing village with stunning cliffside walks—and the most scrumptious fish and chips you’ve never tasted.
Growing up on the southside of Dublin, Howth was a place we heard about but never had occasion to visit. An hour’s drive north, it felt too far to be worth the trip. Even the launch of the DART—a convenient, light rail system—couldn't persuade us to venture to what, in our eyes, was a distant land. Ah, the folly of youth!
In truth, riding the DART should be on the hitlist of every adventurous spirit who visits the capital. The route, which hugs the coastline in large swathes, gives a great sense of Dublin Bay and all of its coastal communities, before pulling into Howth.
“The crisp, briny air is the first thing that hits you as the train doors open. That, and the cries of seagulls or the creaking of fishing boats moored in the nearby harbor perhaps. After all, despite its steady stream of day-tripping tourists, Howth remains a busy working port. “
No visit to Howth is complete without a stop at The Bloody Stream, the rustic pub and restaurant tucked right below the DART station. A memorable name for sure, but the moniker is well-earned as it recalls the area’s particularly grisly history.
Legend has it that during the Norman invasion of 1177, a savage battle took place nearby between the Danes and the forces of Sir Almeric Tristram (allegedly a descendant of one of King Arthur’s Knights of the Round Table).
Image: bloodystream.ie
The local stream—which to this day flows beneath the pub— famously ran red with the blood of fallen warriors. Here, a perfectly poured pint of Guinness with all of its creamy deliciousness was the perfect way to soak up the atmosphere at the end of the day. And while the signature seafood platter looked tempting, tonight I was after something else.
Fish and chips, arguably some of the simplest and tastiest fare, can be surprisingly hard to master. However, Leo Burdock, Dublin’s oldest ‘chipper,’ located just a two-minute walk from the pub, certainly did not disappoint.
“Wrapped in newsprint and generously doused in sea salt and malt vinegar, the traditional cod and chunky chips proved to be a mouthwatering spread.”
Image: eatmycritique.com
That night at the Marine Hotel in neighboring Sutton, my belly full, I slid into blissful repose in a comfortable but otherwise unremarkable third-floor room. Sometime in the early hours of the next morning, roused suddenly by the sensation of a firm, gentle pressure on my chest I awoke.
Lasting no more than 10 seconds, it felt as though—dare I say it—two unseen hands sought to make their presence known as I lay paralyzed in the deathly silence. Then, just as the feeling faded, a soft, unintelligible whisper in my right ear left me suitably shaken—before I eventually drifted back to sleep, this time with the lights very much on.
“Lasting no more than a few seconds, it felt as though—dare I say it—two unseen hands sought to make their presence known as I lay frozen in the deathly silence.”
Image: The Marine Hotel
For many, the Howth Cliff Walk is the real draw of this scenic area, and it promised to be the highlight of my last day.
There are in fact five different walks of varying degrees of difficulty one can take. I chose the Tramline Route (aka ‘The Blue Route’) which begins in the village and passes the King Sitric Seafood Bar before ascending to the trailhead.
Image: Tripadvisor
Relatively easygoing underfoot, this trail of moderate difficulty winds along gorse-lined paths atop wind-battered cliffs that plunge mercilessly into the ocean below.
Dublin’s weather has this uncanny knack for surprising you when you least expect it. Rounding the corner at the top of the hill not far from the Nose of Howth, the gloom lifted to reveal gloriously hazy sunshine, and the high drama of the ridge walk ahead.
Lunch near the top at the aptly named Summit Inn was a chance to revisit a childhood favorite. Growing up in Dublin, a birthday party without cocktail sausages wasn’t really a party. Chunky chips, sweet chili dip, and a pint of plain rounded out a hearty meal after a solid stroll.
After a couple of action-packed days, it was time to bid farewell to this enchanting enclave in North County Dublin.
Until next time Howth, slán go fóill!
